Gear Advice
Kit lists
Each holiday or course has a full description, including itinerary,
accommodation, kit list, information about Mountain Innovations etc in
a pdf linked from the relevant page of the website. On page 2 of every
pdf there is a kit list for that holiday or course. If you need more information
about any particular item of kit please don't hesitate to contact us and
speak to Andy.
Crampons
Boot manufacturers along with many retailers have adopted, in more recent
years, a crampon compatibility scheme to try to clarify which boot models
are capable of taking which types of crampons. The boot grading goes from
B0 to B3 and crampons go from C1 to C3. B0 boots aren't suitable with
crampons and a B1 boot is only compatible with a C1 crampon etc (see table
below)
• C1 crampons are the flexible walking type, which have a flexible
shank connecting the front and rear sections of the crampon. Their
attachment is by either straps or a plastic cradle/strap system (less
fiddly). They do not involve a toe bale (wire) or heel clip arrangement.
They usually have between 8 and 12 points.
• C2 crampons (a.k.a. Hybrid Crampons) at least articulate between the front and rear portions of the crampon whether this is through being able to pivot around at a particular point or more commonly, and I think preferably, through a flexible shank again. Their attachment to the boot is via a heel clip arrangement and a plastic cradle/strap (for the toe). They're generally a lot less fiddly to put on when hands are cold. They have 12 points with the front 2/4 at an aggressive angle and are suitable for general mountaineering and winter climbing. I recommend this type providing your boot is of adequate stiffness.
• C3 crampons are designed for a fully rigid boot with hard technical ice climbing in mind and are not very well suited to being used as a walking crampon.
C1 and C2 crampons nowadays have a horizontal 'frame' with the points
having been bent down in their construction. This is as opposed to
a vertical frame where the points extend down. The latter type tends
to 'ball-up' far more readily thereby rendering the points ineffective.
Balling-up is the phenomenon by which, in certain snow conditions,
snow builds up on the underside of the crampon/boot sole between the
points. In the boot/crampon system the boot should provide the rigidity
or the life of the crampon is likely to be greatly reduced.
A number of crampon manufacturers are now automatically fitting anti-ball plates to their crampons. These are pieces of rubber, which attach to the crampon and don't allow the snow to stick. Alternatively the problem can be dealt with by banging the shaft of your ice axe against the side of your boot though this is a hassle & can slow the pace considerably.
Boots
Firstly they have to be comfortable and have appropriate stiffness
both w.r.t. the sole and the upper. The upper has to be robust enough
to allow the crampon straps to be done up tightly without causing
your foot to feel restricted. Ideally the upper should generally
be a one-piece leather construction (with or without the tongue being
a separate piece). Leather is more durable than other materials and
gives a high overall level of waterproofness throughout the life
of the boot providing it is reproofed regularly.
There is at the moment a general shortage of high quality leather due to the increased use of leather in car interiors. Due to car manufactures greater purchasing power some boot manufactures aren't able to obtain the highest quality of leather and are resorting to using more suede & synthetic materials backed up by a goretex liner.
Ideally the best use construction is where the leather is reversed (as opposed to suede) i.e. the shiny side is turned inside and the suede side is on the outside. The shiny side is naturally water-resistant and by turning it inwards, it is protected from scuffing. The suede side also absorbs bees waxed based proofing more readily thereby increasing the overall waterproofness of the boot.
Your boot is as much a tool on the hill as your axe or your crampons so if you are planning to go winter walking on a regular basis I recommend a B2 boot or more.
Examples of Acceptable/Recommended 3/4 season Boots
Scarpa Manta (Boot Grade B2)
Scarpa SL (Boot Grade B1)
Scarpa Omega Thermo (B3)
Scarpa Alpha
Zamberlan Baltoro (Boot Grade B2)
Meindl Nepal Pro (Boot Grade B1)
Salomon Super Mountain 8 (Boot Grade B2)
Salomon SM Lite (Boot Grade B2)
La Sportiva Makalu (Boot Grade B1)
Gronell Mont Blanc (Boot Grade B1)
Raichle 60 Degree GTX (B2)
Raichle Mt Peak (B1)
There are always new models coming onto the market so the above list
is by no means comprehensive. If you need any further advice please
don't hesitate to contact me on:
01479 831 331.
Ice Axe
•
The shaft: If you're thinking about purchasing an ice axe before you
come on a course, here's a little demonstration on your ability to
brace the shaft against your torso and hence the appropriate length
of around 55cm. Many shops still subscribe to the convention that an
axe used for winter walking should have a long shaft. We do not.
Demonstration: your hands should be close into your sides when bracing the axe. Hold your left hand clenched, slightly away & just below your left hip level and get someone to push down on it whilst you resist. You should find you're only mainly able to use the small muscle groups in you arms. Then hold you left fist level & to the side of your chest and repeat the procedure. You should be able to apply more resistance due to the use of the large muscles groups (back, chest & shoulders) of your upper torso.
The final arresting position of all the various self-arrest techniques is about bracing the shaft of the axe in as tight as possible against your chest - i.e. using as much muscle power as is possible. There are some advantages of having a longer shafted axe but they are outweighed by the disadvantages. The shaft should be straight or nearly straight.
• The pick should be curved but not inclined (as in many technical climbing axes). The most versatile type of axe is sometimes referred to as an Alpine axe i.e. there is a reasonable downward curve on the pick & a straight shaft. This axe would allow you to both successfully self-arrest as well as do easy grade ice climbs should your aspire to this in the future.
• Axe leash - they have their pros and con's which will be covered on the course. For training purposes they are best not used. Our advice is to postpone making the decision to purchase a leash until completing the course.
• The adze (spade shaped component to the axe head) should not be too steeply inclined as in Grivel's Eagle axe and some climbing axes.
• Sticks - yes sticks are O.K. with certain provisos. This will be covered in the course. If you need any further advice please don't hesitate to contact me on: 01479 831 331.
Recommended Gear suppliers/shops:
Mountain Spirit - great independent gear shop in Aviemore. Specialises in ski touring but has a wide range of mountaineering equipment available to purchase or hire. Very knowledgeable staff trained in boot fitting.
Needle Sports - excellent gear shop in Keswick
Cioch Direct - tailor-made and off the shelf outdoor clothing using Nikwax Analog material as Paramo.
The Bateman Distance Matrix - a detailed timing and pacing card & clicker, designed to keep mental arithmetic to an absolute minimum on the hill.
Tisos - new Tisos Outdoor Experience recently opened in Inverness. Also supplies canoe/kayak hire equipment and adventure holidays.
Nevisport - Branches open everywhere!
Hilltrek - We are a unique outdoor clothing business offering 'Made To Measure' in a range of fabrics as well as clothing and equipment from leading brands such as Páramo.
