Gear Advice

Kit lists

Each holiday or course has a full description, including itinerary, accommodation, kit list, information about Mountain Innovations etc in a pdf linked from the relevant page of the website. On page 2 of every pdf there is a kit list for that holiday or course. If you need more information about any particular item of kit please don't hesitate to contact us and speak to Andy.

Crampons

	C1 Crampons	C2 Crampons	C3 Crampons
B0 boots	NO	NO	NO
B1 boots	YES ? see notes on boots	NO	NO
B2 boots	YES	YES	NO
B3 boots	YES	YES	YES

Boots

 

A good winter mountaineer will have an array of techniques to deal with the variable conditions and situations. B1 boots are often too flexible to effectively kick steps in harder snow as well as apply Front Pointing and American/hybrid crampon techniques on steep terrain. When Front Pointing in hard conditions the toe will bend up, the heal will drop and then the front pints will shear out of the snow or ice surface. There is then the risk of you falling backwards out of your step. They will also have less grip in icy conditions compared with their stiffer cousins. The addition of crampons doesn’t necessarily solve the problem as they can feel very awkward on e.g. rough rocky ground with a thin covering of fresh snow. With stiffer boots you can manage to wear your crampons less and therefore save on energy.

Your boot is as much a tool as your axe or your crampons. Admittedly Front Pointing is a technique more applicable to the winter climber than walker but you don’t want to be limiting the techniques at your disposal before you have even ventured into the mountains. If you are looking to get the most out of an Introductory Winter Skills course or are planning to regularly go winter walking it’s definitely a case of going for a B2 boot or more. B1 boots with crampons may be OK for crossing a snowfield or glacier in summer but it doesn’t automatically make them good winter boots. Unfortunately many gear shops are still advising people that B1 boots are OK for Scotland’s winter mountains.

It’s also important to check the condition of your sole. The edges of the sole and tread should be sharp and not worn. If they are it’s probably time to get them resoled or buy a new pair

 >Other factors to consider: 

The upper has to be robust enough to allow the crampon straps to be done up tightly without causing your foot to feel restricted.

 Comfort is also a very important factor. Don’t rely on “breaking the boot in” should they not be a perfect fit in the shop. Your boots may “break” you first. Pay close attention to whether there is any heal lift as you rock forward on to the toe of the boot. Remember with walking in crampons there will be additional leverage on the heel as you rock your centre of gravity over your front points as you walk.

Insulation is also very import and a boot that has been designed with winter in mind should be adequately insulated. Often the additional insulation provides added padding and hence comfort.

Generally a high quality leather boot is more durable and waterproof in the long term.

If you are thinking about buying boots then check that the shop staff have been properly trained in boot fitting (i.e. they’ve been on a Phil Oren’s boot fitting course or equivalent) and that they will be available when you want to try the boots on. They’re often able to tailor the fit of the boot with the addition e.g. insoles, volume reducers, etc if need be.

 

 

Ice Axe

The shaft: If you're thinking about purchasing an ice axe before you come on a course, here's a little demonstration on your ability to brace the shaft against your torso and hence the appropriate length of around 55cm. Many shops still subscribe to the convention that an axe used for winter walking should have a long shaft. We do not.

Demonstration: your hands should be close into your sides when bracing the axe. Hold your left hand clenched, slightly away & just below your left hip level and get someone to push down on it whilst you resist. You should find you're only mainly able to use the small muscle groups in you arms. Then hold you left fist level & to the side of your chest and repeat the procedure. You should be able to apply more resistance due to the use of the large muscles groups (back, chest & shoulders) of your upper torso.

The final arresting position of all the various self-arrest techniques is about bracing the shaft of the axe in as tight as possible against your chest - i.e. using as much muscle power as is possible. There are some advantages of having a longer shafted axe but they are outweighed by the disadvantages. The shaft should be straight or nearly straight.

• The pick should be curved but not inclined (as in many technical climbing axes). The most versatile type of axe is sometimes referred to as an Alpine axe i.e. there is a reasonable downward curve on the pick & a straight shaft. This axe would allow you to both successfully self-arrest as well as do easy grade ice climbs should your aspire to this in the future.
• Axe leash - they have their pros and con's which will be covered on the course. For training purposes they are best not used. Our advice is to postpone making the decision to purchase a leash until completing the course.
• The adze (spade shaped component to the axe head) should not be too steeply inclined as in Grivel's Eagle axe and some climbing axes.
• Sticks - yes sticks are O.K. with certain provisos. This will be covered in the course. If you need any further advice please don't hesitate to contact me on: 01479 831 331.

Recommended Gear suppliers/shops:

• Mountain Spirit - great independent gear shop in Aviemore. Specialises in ski touring but has a wide range of mountaineering equipment available to purchase or hire. Very knowledgeable staff trained in boot fitting.
• Needle Sports - excellent gear shop in Keswick
• Cioch Direct - tailor-made and off the shelf outdoor clothing using Nikwax Analog material as Paramo.
• The Bateman Distance Matrix - a detailed timing and pacing card & clicker, designed to keep mental arithmetic to an absolute minimum on the hill.
• Tisos - new Tisos Outdoor Experience recently opened in Inverness. Also supplies canoe/kayak hire equipment and adventure holidays.
• Nevisport - Branches open everywhere!
• Hilltrek - We are a unique outdoor clothing business offering 'Made To Measure' in a range of fabrics as well as clothing and equipment from leading brands such as Páramo.